You can read a uromastyx taming guide here. They are also often more expensive than other commonly found reptile pets, and one uromastyx will often cost $150 or more. Unlike humans, Uromastyx are cold-blooded, which means that they need external heat for their bodies to work properly. Housing two or more male Uromastyx together is even more likely to produce territorial conflicts and severe injuries. Most captive uromastyx kept in good conditions can live for 15-20 years, and sometimes even up to 25! Also, the tank could be holding in humidity (also resulting in a RI) or getting too cold at night which can aggravate any issue.

Uromastyx benti (Yemeni spiny-tailed lizard, Orange Benti Uromastyx) Uromastyx dispar (polytpic species; 3 sub-species make up this taxa) Uromastyx dispar dispar (Southern Saharan Spiny-tailed Lizard) Uromastyx dispar flavifasciata (formerly U. flavifasciata obscura, Banded Uromastyx) Uromastyx dispar maliensis (Mali Uromastyx) You may skip a feeding every once in a while to help prevent oversupplementation. If a bulb burns out and the tank becomes dark, they may go off-feed. Keep an eye on UV Guide UK for latest news in UV lighting for reptiles.     Starter Interestingly, Uromastyx also need seeds as a regular part of their diet.

That being said, juveniles of most species are likely to benefit from access to a small, shallow water bowl 1-2x/week. require higher surface basking temps of at least 130°F. They need both strong UVB and a bright daylight fluorescent or LED fixture as part of their habitat setup. It’s winter so they tend to brumate – a form of light hibernation. I don’t have any references, but I would assume that once they get to adult size (around 250-300 grams) that should be safe for the female. At MVR, we have attempted a natural terrarium for our Uromastyx with limited results for the plants – it is quite warm and dry inside their tank. Specially made 4′ long reptile cages with sliding front doors are great, as picking up a uro from above may startle them. However, uros do enjoy this type of substrate as it allows them their natural behavior of digging. Various uromastyx species reach different sizes. Parts & Accessories. Temp is about 100 under her spotlight, she hangs out in a zone which is about 90, and it goes to the 70s at night in her hide from a floor heater. Bulb and fixture should span 1/2 of the enclosure’s length. It seems to be the wrong time for brumation, we make her a varied diet of fresh veggies, lettuce, sweet potatos, and legumes, and lately flowers, and other stuff from your diet sheet. Although hatchlings may readily take insects, this is a critical period for them and an improper diet can cause Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) quite quickly. He’ll probably come out every other day, not on a schedule, so be sure to have small amounts of food available for him every day. Background temperatures should reach 80-100 Fahrenheit (26.6-38 Celsius) and the cool side – 80-85 F (26.6-29.4 C). and hopefully he will improve. Another great thing is that there are many different species of uromastyx! Hi Vladimir! You can also try shredding or finely chopping up the veggies, it may make them more palatable. Some might also be skittish when you get them, and it can take quite a long time and patience to earn their trust. In the low 80s at night and mid 80s during the day as the cold side.

An otherwise healthy Uro will probably get better as long as the tank is not too humid and is kept warm with a cool retreat during the day. However, this greatly depends on each uromastyx personality, so when getting a baby you have both the ability to tame it, but you won’t know its personality from the beginning. He is on top of his log under the basking light, but having a hard time staying on it from the motion. Uromastyx tend to do best on naturalistic substrates such as the following: Avoid unnatural solid and loose substrates, such as paper towel, tile, calcium sand, coconut fiber, ground walnut shell, ground corncob, millet, wood shavings, and wood chips. As sun-lovers, they need light — and LOTS of it. Measure these humidity levels with a digital probe hygrometer, with the probe placed on the cool end of the enclosure. That is a very long lifespan for a pet lizard. It’s important that the cage is warm enough for her to digest food. Or would you recommend using something else? A night time drop to 18C (65F) should be allowed. Switch was immediately more active & began to show more yellow but we are still concerned about his eyes. I’ve had him for almost 2 years (after my sister had abandoned him in my spare room she was staying in recently) and we’ve have been slowly making upgrades to his habitat. Uromastyx dispar flavifasciata. We strive to make all our products easy to use, while providing incredible value to the owner. Cut a hole to allow easy access; you might want to also include a PVC or a flexible tubing as a tunnel into the humid hide. Don’t get a cheap gauge-type stick-on thermometer — these aren’t very accurate. There are several really awful Uromastyx Care sheets out there, and a lot of advice on the internet is sketchy. A hatchling (under 6 inches in total length) can be housed in a 20 gallon “long” tank, but anything smaller is problematic because it doesn’t allow a proper temperature gradient. Can you please tell me exactly what substrate to use?

Some types of bedding that are appropriate to other animals are not good for uromastyx. Then next day she was moving around and eating. Adult and sub-adult uros can be placed on a substrate mix of washed playsand and organic soil/compost/peat moss. You might want to double check the night time heater, if it’s getting colder than normal at night they might be more lethargic and take a longer time to warm up. Even though some uromastyx can take a while to trust you, most will eventually tame out and be fine with handling, touching and eating from your hand. A vet can help discover the problem. Uromastyx (Uromastyx spp.) However, some species such as Moroccans and Mali will be born mostly beige colored, and will develop colors only after 2-3 years. Uromastyx live a long life if you provide good care. Hope this helps! Make sure that the reptile cannot touch the heat source! Hi Hamry!

Uromastyx are curious, rather active, friendly, beautiful! A humid hide can be simply a tupperware container with damp sand covered in moss with an opening cut out so they can enter and exit easily. Provide a 10% UV-B strip light or a UV-B mercury vapour lamp. Be careful that your uro doesn’t asphyxiate on the water; some get very excited in water and inhale it into their lungs! When is it a safe age/weight to start breeding them (I have Nigerians). Alternatively, you can use two 6400K T5 HO fluorescent “daylight” bulbs in a reflective fixture. The genus Uromastyx consists of a handful of species, all indigenous to the arid desert regions of North Africa and the adjacent middle east. For beginners especially, it’s a good idea to get a few months old captive bred baby uromastyx that has been eating, pooping and showing other normal behaviors. It may or may not be serious, so a vet check might be necessary. From 2007-2009, major brands of UVB bulbs had a manufacturing error which resulted in damaging short-wave UV rays being emitted. Take care not to use too much of these, as too much vitamins can be just as deadly as too little. You could get hood for use with tube lighting, instead of mercury vapor bulb fixture, but you will have to also provide heat sources. A big component to Uromastyx care is choosing the right substrate for you and your pet.

Please read our in-depth article on artificial UVB lighting. Excessively high ambient humidity can cause a variety of health problems, so it’s important to make sure your enclosure is well ventilated and has the right basking temperature — both of these factors play a major role in determining healthy humidity levels. On a simple substrate such as bird seed or slate tiles, you’ll need to provide a nesting box or “humid hide” to simulate a burrow. Look for a 6000-7000K T5 HO fluorescent or LED plant light long enough to span about 3/4 of the enclosure’s length. This will help them regulate their humidity levels. While some can acclimatize and become docile within few weeks, other might take months and even a year or longer. Make sure they are cut into manageable pieces. Mostly organic.

The wattage it will take to accomplish this varies according to room temperature and distance between the lamp and the basking spot, but a 175w PAR38 Philips Halogen Flood Heat Bulb or similar should do the trick for a 24” tall enclosure. You should provide supplements at least once or twice a week for an adult, more for juveniles. How many hours a day/ a week of natural sunlight should a uro get?

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